VOGONS


486DX2 build

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First post, by DonutKing

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After a bit of fiddling around and scrounging for parts I've finally got a working dos box 😀

I decided to go for a 486DX2. The 486 is interesting for a couple of reasons- the 486DX was the first Intel CPU to include a maths coprocessor (aka Floating Point Unit) inside the CPU. The 486SX did not include the maths coprocessor, (or it was there but disabled) which was its only difference.
The 486DX2 was also the first Intel CPU to be clock multipled- that is, running at a multiple of the speed of the motherboard. In the case of the DX2 it was double, for the DX4 it was triple (just to be confusing). modern processors often run at 10x-20x clock multiples.

The 486 also included 8kb of on-die L1 cache; another first for Intel processors. (The DX4 upped this to 16kb). This was in addition to the cache that was installed on the motherboard- a practice that became popular with the 386. This motherboard cache became L2 cache, and has basically disappeared since the days of the Pentium Pro and Pentium 2 which included L2 cache in the processor, as has nearly all modern processors since.

There were also a variety of processors you could run in a 486 board- Cyrix and AMD both had their 486 variants but there were also 586 processors available at speeds up to 133MHz. Early 486 CPU's ran at 5 volts and later ones, especially 586's ran around 3.3 volts so you had to get a voltage regulator if your motherboard didn't support it. You could even get Pentium Overdrive processors to fit in your 486 board, some of which included voltage regulators so they'd fit in older 5v only boards.

Finally, there was the VESA Local Bus (VLB), a type of expansion card slot that was pretty much exclusive to the 486 (There were apparently some Pentium boards that supported VLB but were quite rare- VLB lost popularity to the PCI bus around the time the Pentium became common). The VLB slot is a standard 16bit ISA slot with what looks like a PCI conector on the end; this made for very long expansion cards. (Not as long as full-length cards from the eighties though). VLB didn't like going above 33-40MHz which was probably one of the driving factors behind the clock-multipled CPU's like the DX2.

Anyway, on to the build. I had a few boxes of parts in my shed but I was missing some important parts- mainly a case and motherboard.
Fortunately the local tip shop had a few AT machines for about $5 each; this one was in exceptional condition so I chose it to house my system. A quick cleanup and it was almost like new:
IMG_0170-640.jpg

Opened the PSU and gave it a quick cleanup too, wasn't too dirty for its age. Checked all the voltages with a multimeter and everything seemed ok.

Now I needed to track down a VLB motherboard- luckily I found a Shuttle HOT407 on Ebay, unused, still in original packaging, for about $25. Also had 256kb of onboard cache, in sockets (This is important because fake cache boards were common in this era; the general rule of thumb is if the chips are soldered rather than socketed, and they say WRITE BACK or similiar in big letters on the chips, they are usually fake).

Snapped that board up and within 2 weeks I had it in my hot little hands:
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This is what you get when you buy a new 486 motherboard- bundle is a bit tight compared to todays boards 🤣 A manual and a utility floppy disk.

I eagerly stuffed a processor and a couple of sticks of 72-pin RAM into the board. Hit the power and.... nothing. Damn. Dead board? Its possible, if its been sitting in a box on a shelf for 15 years I guess. Quick check of the manual and they said they supported 36 bit wide SIMMs. Something clicked and I remembered that means parity- basically the precursor to modern ECC RAM. So this board needed parity SIMMs. I had a stack here to go through but the general rule of thumb is an odd number of chips on each stick- because a byte has an even number of bits, and 72-pin SIMMs were 32 bits wide (4 bytes), while parity added an extra bit to each byte making 36 bits wide. Non-parity SIMMs would usually have 2, 4 or 8 chips to hold the data and Parity SIMMs would have one extra chip to calculate the parity bit for each byte of data.
Anyway, once I found a pair of parity SIMMs the board booted without issue.
Except that the CMOS battery was dead- fair enough for a 15 year old battery.
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It was one of those barrel batteries that was soldered to the board. Luckily it hadn't leaked or corroded anything so I could simply remove it, and plug in an external battery and all should be well.
So I whipped out the soldering iron and pulled off the old battery:
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Plugged in an external battery pack from Jaycar and it was happy 😀

At this point I swapped from the standard DX2 to the overdrive model, purely because it had an integrated heatsink and the CPU was getting very hot to the touch:
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As far as I'm aware, the DX2 Overdrive is identical to the standard DX2, (apart from the heatsink) but all the retail boxed DX2 CPU's were Overdrive models.

Now for other components. I had a box of VLB cards and I had to go through a few before I decided which ones to use.

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The top card is a Winbond IDE/IO controller card. I had to go through about 6 of these before finding one that worked properly. One would read the hard disk but would fall over as soon as you tried to write to it...
This particular one worked fine, and even had the jumper settings silkscreened on the back. 😀

The bottom card is an S3 805 video card. In my testing with 3dbench and PCPBench this card was one of the fastest that I had compared to various Cirrus Logic and WDC cards. Notice the empty sockets on the card; back then you could upgrade your video card's memory instead of buying a whole new card. This one already included a whopping 1MB which was fine for my purposes.

Now a sound card- a Creative Sound Blaster 16
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This one is an ealier, non- PnP model so its IRQ/DMA settings are configured by jumpers rather than software- which is what I preferred as I wasn't going to need to fiddle with it once its installed. It also means less software to load when your computer boots.
Notice the connector on the left edge- its a proprietary interface for a Sony CD ROM drive. Because CDROM drives used the IDE standard you needed a CDROM controller card to connect them to. Often different companies had different interfaces which were incompatible with each other. This one has a few less pins than an IDE connector too. Often, sound cards would include a CDROM controller onboard- you could get them for different CDROM drives- Sony, Panasonic, Mitsumi etc. There were also sound cards with SCSI controllers on them too. Luckily I had an IDE CDROM drive so I wasn't too worried about that.

On to the hard drive. I stuck in an old Quantum Fireball 1.2GB drive I had. A little anachronistic but it would allow plenty of space for the games 😀 I had a 486 back in the day that came with a 200mb drive, which we upgraded to a 1GB drive a few years later so its not impossible.
However, this machine wouldn't recognise any more than 504MB of space- basically a limitation of the CHS addressing scheme that the BIOS and drive use to store and retrieve data on the disk. So I tracked down a copy of Quantum Disk Manager which included Dynamic Drive Overlay software- basically, a software solution that translates the addressing scheme so you can access the full capacity of the drive. Its installed to the MBR of the hard disk, and loads before the operating system starts:
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Now that everything is sorted out its time to put the thing together:
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Everything connected and good to go 😀 Now to install an operating system- so I dug out my old MSDOS 6.22 disks and off we went:

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Install went without a hitch. Now the fun part, installing all the drivers and software. First thing I did to make things easier, was to install the XTreeGold file manager program:
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This was far superior to DOS Shell or Win3.1's file manager back in the day.

I talked about config.sys/autoexec.bat setup in a previous thread so I won't repeat it here, but basically I just loaded everything high, used the EMM386 switches mentioned in that thread and set it to AUTO mode, and used VIDE_CDD.sys for my CDROM driver. I was going to use UIDEJR.SYS but I had an issue in Return to Zork where it would just lock up when trying to play CD music, the VIDE_CDD.sys driver didn't have that issue and was still under 7kb when loaded. The official Sony CDROM driver for my drive was nearly 30kb so this new driver is a vast improvement. I didn't end up using DOSMAX, QEMM, or any other fancy memory managers, because I still had 617kb conventional memory free.

By setting EMM386 to AUTO and having 16mb of memory to play with, I can basically run any DOS game I come across without using a boot configuration menu. So you can play any game without rebooting, or knowing which config you need to choose- a great step for usability in my view. The ONLY game I've had trouble with is Ultima 7 which has a funny memory manager that clashes with EMM386 so I just use a boot disk for that.

Anyway, everything was chugging along so I decided its time to actually play on this thing and dug out my original copy of Sam and Max

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This thing cost me $110 back in 93/94... still remember saving up for it for ages 🤣

Anyway, next step was to install QuikMenu 3 - I had this menu program installed on my 486 back in the day and it was an excellent little utility, and it seemed to unload itself when launching a game so you never had problems with memory usage. It was also much simpler to install, configure and use than Win 3.1

Here's a screenshot of Quikmenu:
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Here are a couple more screenshots showing various games installed. The games with mutliple episodes like Keen, Quest for Glory, I just wrote a simple batch file which uses the CHOICE command to prompt which game to play, and executes the correct file accordingly.

After a couple of weeks of digging up my old copies of games and installing them the machine is running perfectly, with a HEAP of old games on it and still ~200mb of free space.

I've still got a few parts left over so I might try to build another one and whack a network card in each, so I can play multiplayer Doom/Warcraft2/Command and Conquer etc 😀
I haven't bothered to install Windows 3.11 despite having disks for it... purely because none of the games I have require it. If I do get a network card and I get bored one day, I might try to track down an old copy of Winsock Trumpet and Netscape Navigator and try to get on the internet with it, just for shits and giggles - there's probably few sites left that will work properly with it, if the poor machine doesn't grind to a halt trying to render them 😜

In the meantime though, I'm loving revisiting the games of yesteryear 😁
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Reply 1 of 39, by batracio

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Very nice post and rig. My own 486DX2 unfinished project also had a SB16, a Winbond I/O controller card and a S3 805 VLB video card. However, I didn't manage to get both primary and secondary IDE controllers working (I was planning to use two 400 MB HDDs and an IDE CD-ROM drive). I think you have both HDD and CD-ROM connected to the same controller with a single cable. Have you tried to connect each of them to a different IDE port? If so, did it work fine? My card may be defective, or maybe I'm missing something.

By the way, $110 for an original copy of Sam & Max back in 93/94... WTF???

Reply 2 of 39, by retro games 100

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Outstanding post. 😁 Just a few very minor comments:

I think you could get VLB on some 386 boards.

I think fake mobo cache was exclusive to PC Chips boards, and not really "common for the era". They did three types: plastic chips on the mobo, real chips on the mobo that were the same speed as normal RAM, and real chips on a COAST module that was the same speed as normal RAM. In the last two instances, it's more than likely the cache RAM was ignored and not used anyway.

Re: your winbond controller. I bought some just like yours on ebay last year. They were advertised as "new". The build quality was poor. I'm not surprised you had to try half a dozen before finding a working one.

Re: "This thing cost me $110 back in 93/94". @batracio, I think that's Australian dollars, not US $.

Reply 3 of 39, by DonutKing

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Yes they are both connected with the same cable... I haven't tried with a separate cable for each. I will try it out on the weekend when I get some time to fiddle with it.
Have you checked your jumper settings? The card I'm using lets you disable the secondary IDE port via jumpers.

As for the price of Sam and Max... I'm in Australia, so on anything that gets imported we get ripped off 😜 Back then the average price for any game was $100. I remember even Super Nintendo games were close to $100 as well, sometimes more

Even today our games are a rip off. It's a pretty contentious issue over here. Check this link out:
http://www.steamprices.com/au/topripoffs

Those $AU steam prices are pretty close to what you would pay in a shop for a boxed copy of the game.
It's basically price gouging, but most savvy people will use a VPN to get a US or UK IP address, and buy the game using that country's steam site, to get the lower price.
This is also what we did to get around the Left 4 Dead 2 censorship, if we bought from the US Steam site we'd get the full uncensored version whereas if you bought from the Australian site you'd get no blood and certain enemies were removed.

Outstanding post. Very Happy Just a few very minor comments:

I think you could get VLB on some 386 boards.

Really? They must have been rare as hell. I've certainly never seen/heard of one.
Quick google found this:
http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/E/EF … CA-34M50HL.html
I'm guessing the majority were dual 386/486 boards.

I think fake mobo cache was exclusive to PC Chips boards, and not really "common for the era". They did three types: plastic chips on the mobo, real chips on the mobo that were the same speed as normal RAM, and real chips on a COAST module that was the same speed as normal RAM. In the last two instances, it's more than likely the cache RAM was ignored and not used anyway.

Yeah it probably was PC CHIPS that were the main culprits here (I actually have 2 such boards, an M919 and an M912 both with fake cache) but I did find another one that wasn't PC Chips for sale on ebay... had soldered chips with "WRITE BACK" written on them and as far as I could ascertain it wasn't a PC Chips or one of its aliases... alarm bells were going off so I didn't bother with it.

Re: your winbond controller. I bought some just like yours on ebay last year. They were advertised as "new". The build quality was poor. I'm not surprised you had to try half a dozen before finding a working one.

I actually tried a few different UMC cards as well... I think it was sitting in a box in my shed for 10 years that didn't do them any favours 😜

Anyway, I'm glad you enjoyed my post here... I've got a heap of parts left over and I'm planning to put together a 286, a 386DX and a Slot 1 Pentium 3 with 2x Voodoo 2's in SLI... when I find the time 😁

Reply 4 of 39, by retro games 100

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DonutKing wrote:
Really? They must have been rare as hell. I've certainly never seen/heard of one. Quick google found this: http://stason.org/TUL […]
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Outstanding post. Very Happy Just a few very minor comments:

I think you could get VLB on some 386 boards.

Really? They must have been rare as hell. I've certainly never seen/heard of one.
Quick google found this:
http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/E/EF … CA-34M50HL.html
I'm guessing the majority were dual 386/486 boards.

Yes, I think they are hybrid boards, accepting either a 386 or 486 chip. That must have been what I was thinking of.

Re: PC Chips. They were wise and careful not to clearly "ID" their boards. But often you could tell a PC Chips board, because they usually put a PCB Rev number in one of the corners that seemed to consistently have the same font and size.

Reply 5 of 39, by retro games 100

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DonutKing wrote:

Anyway, I'm glad you enjoyed my post here... I've got a heap of parts left over and I'm planning to put together a 286, a 386DX and a Slot 1 Pentium 3 with 2x Voodoo 2's in SLI... when I find the time 😁

I particularly enjoyed reading it because you combined "education" with what you were trying to achieve; to build a 486 machine.

One other very minor observation: I think your sound card (a CT1740 I believe) has a Panasonic interface, and it has the same number of pins that IDE uses (but naturally will not work with an IDE cable + IDE CD-ROM.) I think the Creative branded proprietary CD-ROM drives were really Panasonic drives.

Reply 6 of 39, by DonutKing

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You're probably right, I have a whole pile of SB16/Vibra16 cards here with various interfaces on them and I probably got confused as to which one I actually used. The one in the photo is the one in the PC though.
I actually have a Sony CDU33A which I believe is a proprietary drive, so I'm planning to use one of the cards with the Sony interface on it in the next build to see if I can get it going 😁

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.

Reply 7 of 39, by retro games 100

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Awesome. The Sony CDU33A is a 2x speed drive, I think. I've got a 2x speed drive, but it's an IDE drive! Made by NEC, model CDR-260.

Those old proprietary cables must be quite rare now. I reckon the only way you can realistically get one now is to find a discarded 386 or older 486 PC, and remove its CD-ROM cable. Although I guess some ebay sellers may include the special matching CD-ROM cable if they are selling the drive unit. I wonder if you can modify an IDE cable, and change it so it works as one of those 3 (or 4?) different proprietary cables?

Reply 8 of 39, by Malik

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Looking at the post above, it really must have come from a pure classic junkie (read enthusiast)! Nice! That LED showing "HI" reminds me of my 286 which alternated with "HI" and "LO". Memories...

5476332566_7480a12517_t.jpgSB Dos Drivers

Reply 9 of 39, by DonutKing

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Awesome. The Sony CDU33A is a 2x speed drive, I think. I've got a 2x speed drive, but it's an IDE drive! Made by NEC, model CDR-260.

Those old proprietary cables must be quite rare now. I reckon the only way you can realistically get one now is to find a discarded 386 or older 486 PC, and remove its CD-ROM cable. Although I guess some ebay sellers may include the special matching CD-ROM cable if they are selling the drive unit. I wonder if you can modify an IDE cable, and change it so it works as one of those 3 (or 4?) different proprietary cables?

It looks like a floppy cable is a perfect fit so I'll see how I go with that. Here's hoping there's nothing too fancy about those cables.

Looking at the post above, it really must have come from a pure classic junkie (read enthusiast)! Nice! That LED showing "HI" reminds me of my 286 which alternated with "HI" and "LO". Memories...

Yeah I love my old DOS machines 😁
I posted this on another forum but I'll post it here too- my very modest collection of 386/486 processors

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Also a boxed 486DX2 Overdrive still in shrink wrap 😁
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As for the LCD display on the front- this one alternates between HI and LO as well 😀 I actually wanted it to say 66 but the display doesn't seem adjustable- there aren't any jumpers on the back. I guess HI is friendlier anyway 😜

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.

Reply 10 of 39, by Amigaz

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Nice machine 😀

imho what it's missing though is a Gravis Ultrasound card and some Roland MT32 synth capability

Wish we had stores here selling old PC's so I don't have to rely on Ebay for getting all of my gear..but I'm done with that for now.

The old Sony proprietary drives as the CDU33 are quite good...have one in my Commodore PC-50...it's quite fast actually and almost instantly regognizes cd's without any major spinups...it hasn't failed reading any cd-r's either.
These old cd drives didn't have powered trays either...you had to close/open it with your muscles 😁

My retro computer stuff: https://lychee.jjserver.net/#16136303902327

Reply 11 of 39, by swaaye

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I paid >$200 for a Quantum Fireball 1280A back in '96 (I think). It was the speed demon storage champion IDE drive of the day. 😁 It certainly was faster than the 210MB Maxtor that it replaced.

Reply 13 of 39, by DonutKing

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imho what it's missing though is a Gravis Ultrasound card and some Roland MT32 synth capability

Someone else said this to me as well but I can't find any of these locally and on ebay the cheapest GUS is $100, most are like $170 or more. Can't find any MT32's for less than $200.
A bit too expensive for my tastes. FM Synth does the job for now 😀

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.

Reply 16 of 39, by HunterZ

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My god, that's the same case my 486DX4-120 from the mid-90s used! 😁

My 486DX4 machine was also VLB-based, and I believe we used a CMD 640 based VLB I/O controller card in it, which had 2 IDE channels. I used the primary channel for my main hard drive and the secondary channel for my CD-ROM drive. Apparently that CMD 640 chip is infamous for data corruption issues, but I never had any problems with it.

I had a SB16 MCD in that machine, but didn't bother trying to use the CD-ROM interface(s) on it since my controller card worked fine.

Reply 17 of 39, by Tetrium

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I really love your opening post!

Btw, looking at your small cpu collection, is that 486SX an SX-20? If so, those are quite uncommon...you should keep it! 😉

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
Report spammers here!

Reply 18 of 39, by DonutKing

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My god, that's the same case my 486DX4-120 from the mid-90s used!

Funny, I've had a couple of people say that they had a machine with this case... obviously it was very popular back in the day.

The 486 I owned back in the day came in this case except mine was a mini tower and that appears to be a mid tower. I would buy that machine in a second except for the fact that shipping over the Pacific ocean is going to be astronomical 🙁

Btw, looking at your small cpu collection, is that 486SX an SX-20? If so, those are quite uncommon...you should keep it! Wink

Unfortunately no, its a 25MHz. I remember reading in the Redhill Guide that they only saw one and for good reason...

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.

Reply 19 of 39, by DonutKing

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Well I managed to get this on the internet 😀

IMG_0254.jpg

Dug through my pile of stuff and found an ISA Realtek RTL8019 network card (complete with 10base2 BNC connector 😜 )

I downloaded the Arachne web browser which runs on top of DOS (No windows required) and then I needed to find a TCP/IP DOS driver- turns out Realtek still had it on its website but the driver I needed was the Unix packet driver... inside this archive was a COM file 😮 not sure why it
was under Unix and not DOS because you can't do much with a COM file under Unix... anyway, loaded that and started the Arachne config.

Was pretty straightforward, set your graphics and TCP/IP settings, and off we go.

As you might imagine it is seriously slow. Took about 3 minutes to load a page on the forums. It even says down the bottom in the status bar "Processing... feel like a coffee?" I remember a mate with a 486DX4/100 who was browsing the web on Win 3.1 and it wasn't too bad- but back then websites were a LOT simpler. This was back when dialup was the standard household connection, so maybe we were just used to waiting 😜

Anyway it was fun and I did mange to post on another forum but it was painfully slow. I think i'll stick to something a little newer for web browsing 😜

Was playing around with this yesterday and have installed Win 3.11 now- will have to take some pics... unfortunately I'm down to about 20MB free space on the hard disk, I'm considering swapping the drive for a 2GB CF card with an IDE adapter. Of course its a bit of an anachronism and you lose that retro hard drive sound when things are loading 🙁

I did briefly consider compressing the disk with Drivespace but I've never actually used it... and from my investigation in appears that not only can it cause compatibility issues but the driver takes up like 100kb of memory 😮

I've also bought a NEC XR385 for cheap off ebay, a clone of the Yamaha DB60XG so I will hopefully get some wavetable synth happening too 😁 I'm hoping that the SB16 I'm using won't have the hanging note issue, if not I'll have to dig through my box-o-bits and find one that works.

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.