VOGONS


First post, by Andy221

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It's been many years since I touched hardware this old so looking for some ideas from people with more knowledge than myself.

The main board is quite late era with PCI and PS2 support, 4PDS 2.11 SiS 85C496 ZIDA which I got from an ebay seller as working and have bought many things from before.

Couple this with a DX4/100 and 16MB 72pin EDO RAM and the only card so far is a PCI S3 Virge PCI card to see if I can get some display output.

This is all powered by a 500W cooler master PSU via an ATX -> AT adapter.

I've sourced the motherboard manuals at https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/zida-4dps, mine being a 2.X revision board.

So far I've got black/black for the power terminals, the dot to dot on the CPU socket, and interpreted the jumpers for CPU/Cache/Voltage config on the board as best I can remember/interpret from the manual.

Turning on the power produces nothing, fortunately also no funny smells or smoke either - I've checked and rechecked the steps I can remember / find online and am a bit stumped for next step.

Any ideas?

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Reply 1 of 11, by Hoof

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Congrats on the 486 board!

One question, your ATX->AT adapter, did it have two extra wires that led to no where? If so, those have to be connected to each other (or an ATX-style power switch) to tell the PSU to power on. My PSUs appear to work just having those two wired together, but I think some ATX PSU's need a momentary bridge, so the wired-together might not work.

Reason this is relevant is that AT style PSU's had a master on/off physical switch, ATX can be turned on/off via a front case button, usually connected to the motherboard itself. The way this works (IIRC) is the motherboard connection is directly wired to the two pins the ATX->AT adapter has wires for, thus allowing the switch on the case to close the circuit for the PSU, telling it to power up/down. AT motherboards don't have this.

The nice thing about this setup (if the wires can just be permanently connected) is the PSU switch itself then works like an AT-style power switch.

Try connecting the two wires together, briefly, or permanently. Only do this if the adapter had those two extra wires though, as obviously connecting two random wired might not give good results 😀

Reply 3 of 11, by ux-3

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While I have no idea as to your problem, I would like to thank you anyway. Reading your post made me realize how to deal with my 1993 PSU in my working 486. It never occured to me that there may be ready converters for this. But thanks to you, I found one on amazon and ordered it.
I rather test it when knowing the board is fine, than after a PSU meltdown with unknown follow-up damages.

Did your board come with cpu and ram or are these additional question marks?

Does the board have a power led or anything that indicates electricity present?

Did you install a beeper?

Retro PC warning: The things you own end up owning you.

Reply 4 of 11, by Andy221

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I dont have a beeper on hand, but will order one. No LEDs or anything on the board.

Everything is a question mark including me 😀 I've reasonable confidence in the board due to the seller, and I've tested the PCI video card in another system.

This is my only socket 3 board so the RAM / CPU were purchases for it.

Reply 6 of 11, by Andy221

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ux-3 wrote on 2024-05-19, 13:42:

J3 seems to have power led according to the manual. You need to connect an LED to it correctly though.

Pin1 is signal, pin3 is ground

Nice spot, I've hooked up a LED to it and it does indeed light, so confidence in the board is fairly high.

Reply 10 of 11, by chinny22

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Beeper is definitely your 1st step. Good chance the PC is trying to tell you whats wrong by giving you a beep code that you have a ram/video/whatever error
Even a cheap piezo buzzer will do. (proper speaker is preferred if playing PC speaker games though)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182990065587?_trk … 5.c101506.m1851

Reply 11 of 11, by Andy221

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Little update, both my Beeper and POST board arrived. The beeper gives a continuous stream of beeps, and the POST board says C6C1 which seems to mean an external cache error.

From my read of the manual it seems like the board requires all 4 cache slots + Tag RAM to be filled, so I suspect I'll need to buy some cache chips even to test which one might be at fault.